Imagine mailing a token to a friend in a tattered envelope because its fibers are weakened. It may not allow your package to arrive intact.
Our skin is like that envelope because it is our envelope. And of the many ways we can support skin integrity, supplying a sustained source of antioxidant power is one of the best.
The skin isn't just there to make us look attractive – it is the first line of defense against invaders. As the largest organ of the body, it is also crucial for vitamin D synthesis and protecting against water loss.
The skin's worst enemy is free radicals, which increase due to UV radiation (sun exposure). This in turn causes free radical-induced oxidative stress, leading to premature ageing and loss of skin integrity.
Nutricosmetics Market Snapshot
Skin health – Nutricosmetics – is a flourishing category for product development as consumers worldwide now understand the link between supporting skin structure and appearance through dietary supplementation, not just relying on topical applications.
According to a report, ‘Nutricosmetics Market Outlook (2023 to 2033)’ from Future Market Insights, the global nutricosmetics market was estimated to be valued at US$7 billion in 2023 and is expected to reach US$15 billion by 2033, as consumers adopt the beauty-from-within trend. The report notes that a driving force accelerating this growth is the coalescing of nutrition, dermatology, and the pursuit of wellness for healthy, vibrant ageing.
Other popular and common concerns consumers have about their skin are to find resolutions (natural over synthetic) to acne and to lighten skin tone. Approximately 80% of teens and young adults, as well as 12% of women aged 25 to 58, seek out products, including supplements, to resolve acne.1
Regarding skin lightening, 40% of Asian women use products to create refined, porcelain skin. The Indonesian skin whitening market is expected to grow at a 7% CAGR through 2027, and in India, whitening products account for 60% of the skincare market.2
Why Glutathione for Skin?
Known as the ‘master of antioxidants’, glutathione (GSH) earned that moniker through its ability to regenerate the antioxidant powers of vitamins C and E, essentially bringing them back to life to work their nutritional free-radical-scavenging magic. Through this distinctive ability, glutathione has been demonstrated to improve skin appearance and health characteristics.
Glutathione minimizes oxidative stress, protecting skin health through three mechanisms: neutralization of free radicals, regeneration of other antioxidant enzymes and vitamins C and E, and the transportation of toxins out of cells while regulating cellular proliferation.
The free radicals reactive oxygen species and lipid peroxide are highly involved in the pathogenesis of Acne vulgaris, and accumulation of lipid peroxide is responsible for inflammatory changes in comedones (tiny skin bumps caused by clogged pores).3,4,5 Glutathione has been shown to protect skin cells from damage by lipid peroxide. One study showed that glutathione is higher in the epidermal surface layer in acne-free individuals than in those with A. vulgaris.6
Melanin is the skin color density or pigment – the darker the skin, the more pigment or melanin. There are two types of melanin: eumelanin (dark) and pheomelanin (light). The ratio between melanin types determines the skin hue. GSH can shift the equation from eumelanin to pheomelanin.7
GSH Challenges
Glutathione, however, is vulnerable to depletion. Plasma levels reduce with age, and internal and external factors exacerbate this.
Another challenge is that not all glutathione ingredients provide the same quality viability in the body; many have slow and limited absorption, and are not taken up directly by cells, prompting the need to develop a GSH that bypasses these impediments.
A Superior Skin-Enhancing GSH
Ingredient development technology has fostered innovation, taking conventional glutathione to a new level and improving its bioavailability. Gnosis by Lesaffre offers Emothion®, a patented crystalline form of S-acetyl-glutathione (GSH), which has been shown through clinical research to cross the gastrointestinal barrier and be absorbed directly into cells. This distinctive form significantly raises glutathione amounts in the body more effectively, more rapidly, and in greater volume than conventional GSH.8
In a 24-hour clinical evaluation, Emothion® was compared to conventional GSH at 3.5 grams each in 18 healthy volunteers at several time points. There was a 69% higher AUC in the SAG group, demonstrating enhanced bioavailability.8
While GSH oral supplementation limits have plagued the industry, Emothion® overcomes them and has the clinically proven highest bioavailability of glutathione ingredients on the market. Its versatility allows for inclusion in capsules, tablets, and other delivery forms.
References
1. Centre de Preuves en dermatologie. Recommandations Acné: Épidémiologie et facteurs favorisants: Recommandations de bonne pratique. online; 2020
2. Salva A. Where Does the Asian Obsession with White Skin Come From? The Diplomat - Asia-Pacific December 2nd, 2019
3. Sarici G et al. Oxidative stress in acne vulgaris. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol 2010; 24(7):763–7
4. Bowe WP et al. Acne vulgaris: the role of oxidative stress and the potential therapeutic value of local and systemic antioxidants. J Drugs Dermatol 2012; 11(6):742–6. 11
5. Al-Shobaili HA et al. Biochemical markers of oxidative and nitrosative stress in acne vulgaris: correlation with disease activity. J Clin Lab Anal 2013; 27(1):45–52
6. Ikeno H et al. Decrease in glutathione may be involved in pathogenesis of acne vulgaris. J Cosmet Dermatol 2011; 10(3):240–4.
7. Dilokthornsakul W et al. The clinical effect of glutathione on skin color and other related skin conditions: A systematic review. J Cosmet Dermatol 2019; 18(3):728–37.
8. Fanelli S et al. Oral Administration of S-acetyl-glutathione: Impact on the Levels of Glutathione in Plasma and in Erythrocytes of Healthy Volunteers. International Journal of Clinical Nutrition & Dietetics 2018.